How to: Modify the S10 Gasmask
S10 Gas Mask Modification
Images will come shortly
In this guide I will go into detail on how to:
This guide will be referencing items which are created by KB3D. I will try and link to the item/include a picture, where appropriate. I will also include tips on how to get the most out of your items.
Modifying a S10 Mask you are suppose to use a specialised kit. This kit is very rare to find, and expensive. This guide will assume you do not have the tool kit. However, this means it’s easier to damage the mask. Some of these stages are also almost irreversible without the tool kit. Each step needs to be done carefully, and at your own risk.
Replacing the eye ring.
To replace the eye ring, you simply need a a flat and strong tool. I personally use the spatula picture below. Originally used to remove printed items from the print bed. A butter knife should also work.
The lens assembly contains 4 parts:
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The outer ring
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The lens
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Rubber ring
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Inner ring
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Holder.
Outer ring is what is replaced by the 3D printed part. The remaining components do not need to change. However I will show you how to assemble it below.
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Holder
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Rubber ring
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Lens
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Place in mask
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Clip together with the outer ring
Returning to the original ring
Repeat the above steps but with the original ring. I personally found the original rings very difficult to get back on. Whiteout on YouTube has a great guide on this.
Changing the side valves
It’s a common misconception that the S10 has only one side valve. The speech unit on the left hand side of the mask, is the same diameter and connects the same way as the right hand valve. Therefore it is possible to modify both. (As pictures)
This guide will show you how to replace only the right valve. The left speech unit can be replaced with the same guide.
The valve is held together with what I call a ‘snap’ connector. That’s simply a black plastic ring which is pushed over a ridge and that “snaps” shut. For the side valves this ring is found on the inside of the mask. It might be difficult to find as the inner rubber nose and mouth guard might be in the way. If you plan to use the S10 modules, then it might be a good time to remove that rubber mouth guard now. See below on how to do that.
Once you have found the valve, to remove the black plastic ring, use a large flat headed screw driver/ or butter knife, to gently position it between the rubber of the mask, and the solid black plastic of the valve. Then gently by twisting your tool you can gently pry off the black ring.
Don’t be fooled by the groove in the plastic ring. It’s a red herring. It needs to be between the rubber surface of the mask and the solid black plastic valve.
Once that ring has been removed the valve should pop out.
Keep the valve and ring. Especially the rubber membrane, which can be easily pulled out.
To insert the KB3D valve. You simply push the valve in and then use the nut to tighten it. To ensure it’s really tight, I use a pair of pliers to twist the valve to make it very tight.
Tip: when screwing in attachments to the KB3D side valves, you might be tempted to screw it tight. If possible it’s best to avoid screwing it tight as you might run the risk of unscrewing the valve instead of the attachment. I’m still working on this issue to try and stop it from happening.
Returning to original side valve.
This is difficult to do. However you simply unscrew the KB3D valves. Then push the original back in. The most difficult job it to push the black ring back over the ridge. I personally have not managed it yet.
Therefore, this is one of the potential irreversible modification.
Fitting the front modules
To turn your mask into a urinal, masturbator or a dildo. This would require modifying the front.
First of all, to remove the S10 valve, the inner rubber mouth guard needs to be removed. If you have not removed it earlier, you have to use a flat tool to gently pry away the black ring holding the mouth guard in place. Same as with the side valve. Place your tool (butter knife etc) between the rubber of the mask, and the plastic ring, on the very front gently pry it away. This should be relatively easy.
It might be possible to skip that step. And move straight onto removing the valve with the mouth guard still attached. However I have not tried it.
To remove the front, the same method applies as the side valves. You have to remove the black ‘snap’ ring holding it in place. Use your tool between the rubber of the mask, and the black plastic. Pry away, and the front should be easy to take out.
Now just like the side valve, place the S10 insert inside. Now before you screw it shut, it’s good to get the orientation correct. This only applies if you are planning on using the funnel.
Skip this next step if you are not using the funnel. - screw in the funnel until it’s screwed all the way, but not tight. Now twist the funnel and insert together until the funnel is in the correct orientation (again make sure the funnel is NOT screwed tight.)
At this point I would screw the S10 insert nut, on and screw as tight as possible.
Tip- Similar to to the S10 side valves. There is currently an issue where if the modules are screwed in too tight, then you run the risk of unscrewing the insert and not the module. So the modules do not need to be screwed tight. Just screwed all the way in (well apart from the reverse-u-lock).
Tip- this only applies to the S10 module. The S10 module is designed so you can “restore” the function of the mask. It’s possible to clip on the front plate of the front valve of the S10 (see picture). To ensure the orientation is correct. Screw the module into the mask, then, make a mark on the module (on the inside) to indicate which is the top of the module. Then when placing the front plate you know which way is up when the module is attached
Now you should have all in information you need to modify the S10 gas mask